Siddiqir
7 posts
Mar 11, 2004
11:45 AM
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I have a question on loft design for rollers. Are there any special requirements for rollers loft design? I saw this loft(URL Below) and look very attractive however this is for other breed. Please let me know what you guys think
Total cost of $500 to put it together which is little hard to believe.
http://www.redroselofts.com/starter_loft.htm
I have to demolish my loft because of poor design. Rain water always gets into and I have many sick birds plus it was nightmare to clean it.
I am now thinking of building "SIMPLEST" Loft for rollers with #1 priority - easy to clean and as small as possible. Planning to house 9-10 pairs
Thanks, -Rauf
Last Edited by Siddiqir on Mar 18, 2004 9:11 AM
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Show Roller
Guest
Mar 14, 2004
6:07 PM
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If you visit Bob McGuan's web site at www.slobberknockerlofts.com ,he has about seven different
peoples lofts and loft designs featured on his site. I also
just finished his genetics book. Great book with a lot of color pictures. Just an FYI. RON
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Siddiqir
11 posts
Mar 15, 2004
11:55 AM
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Thank you
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Anonymous
Guest
Mar 15, 2004
6:37 PM
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You're welcome Siddiqir. I want to add you have to watch how the top plates on the end walls and front walls line up. Build the front wall a little shorter so the roofing matterial will lie flush. Put the 2x4 in there at the front and back anyways as the plan shows. To screw the roofing to right. Let the roofing over hang the sides and back to stop the rain. As far as I'm concerned, it's your loft but don't be afaid to open up the bottom, the more wind the better. You've kept pigeons for a while now and know dampness and this is an easy solution. Build a second door sreened that hinges inward, you'll see the difference that makes. Your nest boxes will be the next priority, build them with a divider. Again you've had pigeons for a while,this is self explanitory. Keep the nest boxes off the wall 3/4 of an in. or so, and build them so they can be removed and put outside in the off season. You are better off with 2 compartments, changing mates and seperating sexes. Use wire for a divider and cover with cardboard and remove after pairing up to get back to air flow again. Just do it!
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Mother Lode lofts
Guest
Mar 16, 2004
7:37 AM
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Sid I sent a pic of my loft to Tony he has it under"visitor picture Gallery" it incorporate's the kit boxes also, all accesed from the inside,inside is 9 individual breeding boxes with a 4 foot fly extending the length of them and a 4x6 open lofts section these are all off the back wall,inbetween the kitboxes and breeding section is a 8x12 breezway for accessing the kitboxes,feed storage,sink and just eyeing the birds both kitbirds and breeders,there's 4 kitboxes on the front and one off the side that you can't see in the pic.for a total of five,this loft is made for rollers and is as practical as I could make it for "my" needs.
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Anonymous
Guest
Mar 16, 2004
1:03 PM
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Siddiqir, I realise now if you build the front and back walls to fit between the end walls they won't interfere with the roofing. You may even let the top plate of the end walls extend out the front to help support the aviary, but I don't want to go there. You can figure it out. Good luck.
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Siddiqir
12 posts
Mar 17, 2004
7:41 AM
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Scott nice loft. Thanks all again
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Swamp Fox
Guest
Mar 18, 2004
8:08 AM
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To Mother Lode Lofts
Scott,
I saw the picture of your loft. Looks great! What are the deminsions of your kit boxes and what size kits are they capable of keeping? I am trying to get started back in performing rollers and need some insight on building my loft. Maybe you could give me your e-mail address and we could discuss. Thanks
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Anonymous
Guest
Mar 18, 2004
2:54 PM
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Swamp Fox,generally I build kitboxes for 20-24 birds as 20 birds is considered a kit,but for traing youngsters I'll fly them at 24 in a kit,I've build several dbl kitboxes and each were slightly different but the size is was pretty much standard,what works well is 40" wide by 40" tall and 36 deep,I use V perches,1x2 wire floor and I use metal trays for feeding that are 32x32,you also want metal trays under the wire floors to catch droppings,it's doesnt take much more work to build a dbl vrs a single,the 36" depth is important as is the the over all heighth as you want to be able to reach the highest perch furthest away from the door,theres a pic of a dbl to the left of the loft,as for the kitboxes on the loft,this is the ideal and I picked it up from the guys that live in harsher areas,rain shine or the darkness of night it doesnt make any difference as far as caring for the birds plus you have a total visual on the birds at all times,I live in Calif and the freestandings are popular. hope this helps and thankss to you and Sid for the compliment,if you have any questions feel free to email me.
scotttam@volcano.net
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Swamp Fox
Guest
Mar 18, 2004
3:16 PM
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Thanks Scott for the great info. I will go by your suggestion. Now if I just can find some good stock birds to start with at a reasonable price, that would be great. Again thanks for your time! If anyone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it.
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Siddiqir
13 posts
Mar 19, 2004
7:08 AM
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Scott, I have a question on Kit box as I will be also putting together a dual kit box, can you tell me how many perches go on each wall with diminsion(40" wide by 40" tall and 36 deep) and what would be the distance between each perches both horizontal and vertical?
Thanks in advance
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Mothor Lode lofts
Guest
Mar 19, 2004
8:29 AM
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Sid the the V pearches are made from 1x4 and the the leangth of them is 7" (cut one side 3/4 in short to compensate for the thickness of the other)on the back wall you have 3 rows of three,on the side you have 3 rows of two,leave no less than about 9 in.from the top of the perch to the highest point of the perch above,and space the bottom of the V perches no less than an inch apart,you know balance them out but keep these measurments as a min.
on the side walls keep the perches pushed towards the back and away from the door opening some,also whats important is make the door as large as possible so that the birds can come out easily upon release and helps eliminate injurys,I utilize the entire opening for the doors,you will also note that more perches can be added but then equal feeding of the birds becomes a problem which is over looked by many but is a very important consideration,I'll send some pics of the inside of some kitboxes.
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Siddiqir
14 posts
Mar 19, 2004
9:03 AM
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Thanks for providing me details. Yes please do send me inside pics of kit box this will give me visual idea. Also I use 36" feeder not tray and birds move and jump around a lot (not enough space for 20 birds however can not fit bigger feeder then 36" in kit box). I think I should use tray this will give more space per bird and less moving around
Last Edited by Siddiqir on Mar 19, 2004 9:04 AM
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Mother lode Lofts
Guest
Mar 19, 2004
11:06 AM
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Sid for me a sqaure feed tray is the only way to go and you want to eliminate as much scramble for the feed as much as you can otherwise the stronger will eat twice thier share and will just become stronger and that usually means stiffer in the air also while the one's that are loosing out drop to much weight,for me it's a must to handle the birds frequently just to know whos who at the feed tray and who's getting to much verses not enough,this is also how you balance your team also,I'll get some pics out this weekend,hey you mentioned that you got some birds from Scotty Rice,were they out of the Sammy William's birds that he has ?
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Siddiqir
15 posts
Mar 19, 2004
11:32 AM
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Yes Scott, they are from Sammy family. They roll real nice and tight. Start rolling as early as 3 months. Scotty Rice told me that he got those birds from California.
I checked the NBRC member directory but Sammy William's name is not list there. Is he NBRC member?
Last Edited by Siddiqir on Mar 19, 2004 11:33 AM
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Mother Lode Lofts
Guest
Mar 19, 2004
11:47 AM
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Sid yes Sammy lives in Ceres Calif and used to fly in our club,Sammy was a hardcore competitor and did well in the major flys,he still has the birds but no longer competes,he's a true rollerman and knows the birds,it's a fine family of birds although I believe they could be a little hot.
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Zinger
16 posts
Apr 01, 2004
7:27 PM
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Does it matter where I put the nest box's? I read all about how to build but I never seen on the best place/level to mount them? Is it better to have them mounted up high, down low or in the middle of the wall? Or don't it matter?
Thanks..Roy.
----------------------------------------
I can Roll when I Skydive so I know why they do it. It's great FUN.
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Mother Lode Lofts
Guest
Apr 01, 2004
7:40 PM
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Roy the birds naturaly likes them high but keep them at a ht. where you can look in and maitain,and from there you can go on down with them,the more aggressive cocks will take the upper ones,also throw the cocks in there first so that they can fight it out over the boxes,once thats done then give them thier hens,also be sure to make the nest boxes wide enough for two nest as they will drop thier next round of eggs while the youngsters are stll in the first nest
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Siddiqir
24 posts
Apr 02, 2004
10:19 AM
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Hello Guys, I have a quick question on breeding pens, Should each breeding pen has it's own cage/aviary so when I locked the birds up for pairing/breeding they can go into cage/aviary and get fresh air and sun light for Vit. D. I have two loft plans in mind.
Loft Plan#1(difficult one)
Each breeding pen has it own cage/aviary for fresh air and sun light. In breeding season when birds are locked up they will have their own cage/aviary for sun light, fresh air and to release stree
Loft Plan#2
There will be two big separate cages/aviary on each side of loft. When they are locked up for pairing they would not get fresh air/sun light. When I separate them in winter one cage will use by hens and other use by cocks. This plan I would prefer because it is simple to build but only drawback with this plan is when the birds are locked up in breeding season they would not get sun light and fresh air.
Please advice
Last Edited by Siddiqir on Apr 02, 2004 10:31 AM
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Qu'Appelle
Guest
Apr 02, 2004
1:40 PM
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Rauf, In the meantime and in between times driving and laying eggs could'nt you give them free range of the loft where they could go out into the aviary.
Jeff O
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Mother Lode Lofts
Guest
Apr 02, 2004
3:00 PM
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Rauf I agree with Jeff but I might also add that if it's ventalated properly that the air will be fresh,my breeders are locked up in Ind boxes and then either rotated out or once they lay the box door is opened until the the cock starts driving the hen for the next round.
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Siddiqir
25 posts
Apr 02, 2004
5:36 PM
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I did not follow what do you mean by "meantime and in between times". Which plan you are refering too #1 or #2
Thanks, -Rauf
Last Edited by Siddiqir on Apr 02, 2004 5:37 PM
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Anonymous
Guest
Apr 02, 2004
6:09 PM
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#2
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Siddiqir
26 posts
Apr 03, 2004
6:06 AM
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Thank you
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