SlipSpur
4 posts
Dec 30, 2005
9:08 AM
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Is it normal for breeding pairs to start producing large, wet stools when actual breeding-laying begins? We have 4 pair that have been in breeding pens for about 2 weeks, under 24 hour lights... we have 2 pair that have lain eggs ( I pair broke the egg... the other pair layed 2 but 1 was soft shell ), the other 2 pair are staying in the nest but no eggs as of this morning. Thanks...
Mark
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ohaus
7 posts
Dec 30, 2005
11:49 AM
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Yes, it is quite normal and be careful when you handle the hens or they will show you how much of a load they carry. LOL
Jim
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SlipSpur
5 posts
Dec 30, 2005
2:02 PM
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Thats a releif... appreciate yer responce.
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Bluesman
Pigeon Fancier
612 posts
Dec 31, 2005
2:59 AM
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I noticed in your post that one pair broke an egg and another was soft shell.You may need to give them some form of grit to make the egg shells harder.Most any type of grit will provide enough calcium to help this problem.David
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SlipSpur
6 posts
Dec 31, 2005
5:52 AM
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Thanks David... we should've had 3 eggs so far, all of them are gone ( 1 was soft ). Could this be a nest type problem? ( the broken, not soft )I just threw some bantam type nest boxes in the pens when I saw the eggs, they are about 12 inches by 8.... the birds caught me unprepaired for eggs. Of the 2 that broke, one was obviously pecked, it had a hole about the size of a beak in the center, is it usual for pigens to eat eggs? The 2nd egg just got broken... did me moving the eggs to the make shift nests cause this?
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Bluesman
Pigeon Fancier
615 posts
Dec 31, 2005
11:18 AM
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No.Pigeons don,t eat the eggs.At least I havn't had any do it over the past 50 years.LOL.
It may have been some problems with not having nest boxes in before they were ready to lay but the soft shell egg is the first sign of not having enough calicum in the hens body to get the nice hard shell.The Banty boxes should work O.K. Give them some nest material such as Pine Needles,Tobacco Stems or Hay. I use hay in mine.I also use the Disposable cardboard type nest bowls.I never liked Straw as it is hollow and can Harbor a bunch of mites etc.This will help cushion the eggs in the nest too. David
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upcd
122 posts
Dec 31, 2005
12:29 PM
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You mention 24 hour light. Use normal lighting hours 8-12 hours. Birds might be getting a liitle crazy. Make sure they have premade nests. Watch for terratorial warfare. Use grit. Rollers are about the best breeders going. Are you mating young to old?
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Bill C
19 posts
Dec 31, 2005
5:08 PM
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Hey Mark, You said " large wet droppings?" Pigeons who are in smaller cages often breeding pens will have large solid droppings from not flying and lack of exercise. I personally have not had large wet droppings except from squeakers when first picked up. Just check the droppings again and make sure they are not green and runny or foul smelling when fresh.
If the breeders are not getting around much they will crap off the edge of the nest and make a large wet pile that will soon have pigeon flies in it unless you keep them cleaned often.
Definately give the birds plenty of nest material each round. Being caged, they really enjoy making the nests and I think it gives them a good desire to brood and care for the young. Jedds sells nest bowls for around .25 each and this helps leep the eggs in the middle of the nest and the nest materail helps the young to grasp their feet and hold secure and helps prevent the sprawled legg syndrom.
I add oyster shell to my red grit now during winter to build up calcium for the egg shells and I give alot of greens year round. Otherwise I would use vitamins during breeding. It takes alot out of the breeders to raise multiple rounds, so I suggest the best feed and care possible. I use organic apple cider or pro-biotics after the first two rounds are hatched. Good luck and just keep an eye on the droppings because they are the best way to see health in your birds. They should be solid with a few down feathers on them from time to time. Also they should be shinny with the rainbow colors. Watch a bird that is dull in color and always fluffed up trying to retain its heat. It is always best not to medicate birds unless you know for sure what is wrong and what it is. I have three books on diseases and most of the time I cull a sick young bird and a breeder. Try not to overcrowd them and keep rat and mice poison under some wood near your cages with a water pan out side your pigeon cage. Good luck on the hatchlings. Bill
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SlipSpur
7 posts
Dec 31, 2005
6:55 PM
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Thanks y'all... I'm giving a granite grit/oyster shell/red cross grit mix. Their droppings aren't watery just very moist ( and large ), it doesn't smell too bad fer poo...LOL.
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SlipSpur
26 posts
Jan 16, 2006
12:21 PM
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Looks like we're in business, the hens that lost their eggs and the one that had the soft shell are setting again on good eggs. I think the problem was that I didn't have nests in the pens for them and when I moved the eggs to the new nests it messed them up. We're up to 11 pair now ( from 2 sorces ), all but the newest are setting... I think there's 12 eggs cooking right now, we should be able to get a kit raised PDQ at this rate... I guess I'd better get started on a Kit Box.
Mark
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