Double D
148 posts
Mar 05, 2006
2:10 PM
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I have a squeaker that seemed to do okay the first couple days but has since dwindled to where it's basically barely breathing and slowly dying. He's about a week old and his nestmate has thrived. In any event, it's quite obvious the little guy's not going to make it. When that's the case do you guys usually euthanize the squeaker so it doesn't suffer or do you let it die on its own? I'm not going to try to save him because if he wasn't strong enough to make it on his own he's probably a cull anyway but my question here is what's the most humane thing to do at this point. I hate to see it suffer but I can't think of a good way to end it's life that I have the heart for. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Darin
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fhtfire
355 posts
Mar 05, 2006
2:47 PM
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darin,
Scott hit it on the head. Just wring the neck. Suffering is such a bad thing. Sometimes mother nature drops the hammer. Just so you know..a squeeker is a bird that is feathered...older then a bird in pin feathers...they call it a squeeker because the birds really squeek and shake there wings when the mom or pop come up to feed....since this is your first round...you will know what a squeeker is when they get older...
rock and ROLL
Paul
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ROLLERMAN
31 posts
Mar 05, 2006
6:52 PM
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darin
if you have a good arm just toss it in to a wall very hard been doing it that way for over 50 years never had a bird make a move after that its instantly over for the bird.
al
Last Edited by ROLLERMAN on Mar 05, 2006 6:52 PM
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upcd
163 posts
Mar 05, 2006
11:51 PM
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Greetings, If you are near a Humane Society. They will put it to sleep for you at no cost. Sorry for your loss.
Last Edited by upcd on Mar 05, 2006 11:51 PM
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Double D
149 posts
Mar 06, 2006
6:34 PM
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The bird ended up dying on it's own the day I started this thread. I looked it over real good before it died, inside the beak and throat and everything and couldn't see anything wrong with it. Today, I'm noticing the nestmate, who seemed to be growing okay, has seemed to slow down or stop growing at all. It's 9 days old and the band easily slips on and off still. I can't be sure but I'm wondering if something is up. All of my other squabs are doing well, growing, feathers coming in real good etc. This is the same pair where the cock and hen were not getting along real good. Have you guys ever seen a pair that when put together produced birds that otherwise seemed to be okay but just didn't survive? If so, did you conclude it was just genetics? I'm wondering if the problem is the parents and not a sickness or illness. Thanks for everyone's input, it's really invaluable to me.
Darin
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upcd
172 posts
Mar 06, 2006
10:13 PM
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The parents have a problem. Parathyriod. Have preventive meds been given before breeding? Thier immunity has been compermized. Babies that died without systoms or lack of growth. Stop all breeding and treat your flock.
Last Edited by upcd on Mar 06, 2006 10:14 PM
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MCCORMICKLOFTS
417 posts
Mar 06, 2006
11:45 PM
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Hit them with some Baytril in the water if you suspect parathyphoid. You don't have to stop breeding. I would isolate this particular pair if they are not already though. You can flock treat the rest with 4-n-1 if this has made you a little nervous.
Brian.
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Swamp Fox
34 posts
Mar 07, 2006
4:52 AM
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Darin,
Don't mean to contradict anyone, but, I had something similar happen last year. I called Jerry at Foy's for advice. He asked me if I was still breeding, and I told him I was. He said your breeding season is over, you need to put them on Baytril. He said it was my decision, that if I gave the Baytrill to them while they had babies in the nest it would more than likely destroy their kidneys because they were not mature enough to withstand the Baytril. I made the decision to go ahead and give it because I did not want to lose my breeders. Sure enough, all the babies that were on the nest at the time died shortly after weaning. They were otherwise very healthy looking young birds. So I guess it would be up to you just like it was for me. If you are losing old birds I would stop the breeding for a month or two and give them Baytril or 4 in 1 or something and then put my pairs back together. Another note of interest, is that giving Baytril could effect fertility for a few weeks. I know this from past experience. Please remember this is just my opinion.
Marion
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Double D
151 posts
Mar 07, 2006
12:40 PM
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I gave all my breeders de-wormer and 4-in-1 about a month and a half ago before I started to breed them. This is the only pair that I'm having problems with. All the other young and pairs seem to be doing fine. If the issue were what you guys are describing, is it contagious? If so, is it air-born? Would the other young also be showing signs? I really didn't need these kinds of issues my first breeding season. Man this sucks!
Darin
P.S. Would the consumption of more water than normal be a sign the adult birds have an issue or is this just increased consumption because they are feeding maturing squeakers?
Last Edited by Double D on Mar 07, 2006 12:57 PM
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J_Star
286 posts
Mar 07, 2006
1:13 PM
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DD,
don't work yourself up because of one instance. Continue and if another happens with another pair in similar manner, then panic. For now, keep an eye on that pair, maybe it is just an inhireted issues. It does happen. Maybe the young got chilled this time of year. Just continue with both eyes open. This is just my opinion and what I would do before I panic.
Jay
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Swamp Fox
37 posts
Mar 07, 2006
1:46 PM
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Darin,
It is normal for the adult birds to consume a lot more water as the babies get bigger and require more water themselves.
Marion
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upcd
176 posts
Mar 07, 2006
4:19 PM
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Poop and dust of poop can spread diseaes. Also pigeons hold many diseases in thier bodies and stress bring them out. Stress: cold weather, breeding, flying and moulting. Seperate pair from the others and medicate. Baytril for the pair and you may have to take care of the baby seperately. Flock treatment Sulfaiminze in the water. Have you noticed and gray eggs that don't hatch. Or babies that don't grow right or swellen joints on wings or legs. give the birds a once over. Keep us posted.
Last Edited by upcd on Mar 07, 2006 4:21 PM
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Velo99
244 posts
Mar 07, 2006
4:35 PM
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I was told by a Mr Anderson a long time ago if a chick gets behind early,cull it. Save yourself the time and effort. We have discussed it before these birds breed like rabbits. Some of us are too kind hearted to be this"cruel".
This ain`t a democracy. It is pigeons,no need to be politically correct. Just do what you have to do to get back into the game bro. Sometimes it sucks, sometimes it`s great.Good Luck
YITS
V99
Last Edited by Velo99 on Mar 07, 2006 4:40 PM
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Opinionated Blowhard
17 posts
Mar 08, 2006
8:41 AM
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It's called paratyphoid, not parathyroid. And this is unlikely in your case.
If this is the case for only one pair, I'd ignore it and see if it gets better next round. Check the parents carefully for possible signs of disease, especially in the throat or vent. Since they're very young parents with no experience, one of them may simply not be feeding the youngsters adequately. Baytril is a sledgehammer solution. You shouldn't need Baytril at this stage. I assume you are providing small amounts of fresh grit daily or every other day.
Don't disturb the parents on the nest too frequently. Some really nervous pairs become so bothered by disturbances than they abandon the eggs or youngsters. I examine the nests every day, but I just lift lightly on the parent to see if the youngsters are still alive. The only time I handle a youngster between hatching and 21 days of age is when I band it.
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MCCORMICKLOFTS
418 posts
Mar 08, 2006
12:19 PM
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Unlike Kevin, I prefer Baytril when I have a pair who discloses they are or potentially are carriers for parathyphoid. Baytril is the only medication to cure the carrier state. I've had two breeding pair in the past whose babies died in the first week. I have been around parathyphoid enough to recognize the smell of it. It is rancid. You can leave the pair together and give them Baytril. The only side effect you will experience will be the next round of eggs will most likely be infertile. If the problem were parathyphoid, from there on out the next rounds should come out fine. Baytril is some kick ass stuff, but you have to use it for it to do its job. They have Baytril tablets now that are the correct dosage for pigeons (as opposed to having to break the others ones in half). By the way, if the babies droppings weren't runny and possessing an odd smell, chances are it could be something else. I prefer sledgehammers to cure things due to my lack of a DVM certificate. Amazing how most of the time it works.
Brian.
Last Edited by MCCORMICKLOFTS on Mar 08, 2006 12:20 PM
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upcd
184 posts
Mar 09, 2006
9:54 PM
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On baytril to cure. Is it a month?
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