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Kit Box Pics


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Double D
171 posts
Mar 22, 2006
1:32 PM
I thought you guys might like to see the beginnings of my kit boxes. As you can see, I'm just finishing the first one but there are room for three of them. They each measure 4 1/2 feet high on the front, 5 feet high on the back and approximately 3 feet squared. I still have to hang the V perches on the other side. I haven't decided if I'll cut any windows into the door or not to let more light in. In any event, I love looking at what others are doing so I thought you might like to see mine. They will eventually be attached to the side of my main loft with doors in the back so I can feed the birds from the inside of the main loft during winter.

Darin







Last Edited by Double D on Mar 22, 2006 1:35 PM
maxspin
22 posts
Mar 22, 2006
1:39 PM
Darin,
Nice looking boxes. I have mine hung on the loft so that I can feed from the inside as well. I really like that setup.
What size wire are you using for the floor. It looks like 1/2 x 1/2.
I would go with 1" x 1" at a minimum or it will plug up in a hurry.
Keith
Velo99
288 posts
Mar 22, 2006
2:11 PM
About the wire,
Darin correct me if I am wrong but you bought that wire for the same reason I did. 3 foot width by like 10 feet or so. there is`nt a lot on the roll and it is economical when building just a kit box or three. It doesn`t come in other sizes, just 1/2x1/2 in this particular package.I have`nt had any problems with it in my other box. I like it.Seems more secure with the smaller mesh.
yits
KennyH
Fr.mike
111 posts
Mar 22, 2006
3:28 PM
Hey double D--nice boxs-I used 1x1 1/2 and then with a 2x6 base I put 1x1 wire that way the racoons dogs cats weasels cant grab there feet.I plan to use my power washer if the crap starts to build up. Steve agent--the guy I bought my birds from had dogs get to his birds feet with just one level of wire--and then he had a hawk hanging upsidedown on his wire also killed a bird threw the wire.thats why I elected to go with two levels split between the two by six. I would rather just power wash a couple times a year a be safer.One weasel can kill all your birds in one night!I have seen a raccoon stick his arm threw wire and wait for chickens to run by in panic grab one--pull its head threw the wire just enough --bite its head and wait for the next one to run by.in the mourning there was a pile of dead chickens in one spot.I couldnt figure it out until I found one slightly enlarged square of the wire and allot of tracks in that spot and acouple of hairs on the wire.Well I can say the next day that was one mad and then dead racoon in my trap.Anyway thats my Ideas I like your boxes .If I knew how to post pics I would.Waiting for the wife to show me LoL !
Fr.mike
Double D
172 posts
Mar 22, 2006
6:18 PM
Kenny, you are exactly right, that's the wire I bought and that's why I bought it. It is 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch and I didn't want to go with anything larger just to keep mice and other things out. I figure the crap will dry enough that I will be able to scrap it through the wire if need be with a scraper. I still have a lot of work left to do and paint and shingles to get on but it's coming along nicely. I just wish I had more time to work on it. I've been working on it about a month now.

Darin

If you can post pics of kit boxes and haven't posted in the past, please do so. It's great for getting ideas. Thanks!
Velo99
289 posts
Mar 22, 2006
7:19 PM
Image hosting by Photobucket

I built this one for about $110.00. Took one afternoon to build it and one to paint it.
3x3x4, wire floor 22 perches two galvanized feed trays,and a waterer.
I found a bundle of shingles in the scrap pile on a job site so I shingled both kitboxes.
The landing board folds up and covers the trap.
I have a flashing mounted on the other side so the birds can`t get back thru

yits
KennyH
PS now that everyone knows who I am
I am gonna start signing off v99 again

Last Edited by Velo99 on Mar 22, 2006 7:33 PM
on a roll
8 posts
Mar 22, 2006
8:01 PM
kenny, is that hole in the door a trap in hole. if so that is a great idea and cheap and easy to build. if that is, what it is,and it works. this is jerry in comanche give me a call at 325 356 7553 i would like to talk, lost your number.
Double D
173 posts
Mar 22, 2006
8:25 PM
Good lookin box Kenny, I like it!

Darin
motherlodelofts
669 posts
Mar 22, 2006
9:06 PM
Darin great job !!!
I wouldn't say anything except now is the time to deal with it , Kieth is right , get rid of that 1/2 x 1/2 , been there done that.
Once the wire coats it will build up and the only way to clean it is to scrape from underneath to break it loose , it is a real pain in the ass.

Scott
knaylor
94 posts
Mar 22, 2006
9:12 PM
darin, also if you go up to 1x1 screen make sure nothing can get under the kit box. Cats and racoons will get some birds if you dont. Kevin
fhtfire
371 posts
Mar 22, 2006
9:54 PM
Darin,

I used the same wire as you on the floor and it SUCKS...I switched to plain old chicken wire for the floor. I got sick of the crap build up. The chicken wire falls right through..plus they do not like to walk on the chicken wire ...so they stay up on the perches.

rock and ROLL

Paul
IDAROLL
6 posts
Mar 22, 2006
10:33 PM
Darin,
Give me a call, would like to visit with you. I'm leaving thursday morning for Utah. Thier first fly is this weekend and looking forward to spending some time with Guil and watching some good birds. 208-420-5179 cell

Dan
J_Star
309 posts
Mar 23, 2006
5:25 AM
Darin and Kenny,

From looking at the pictures I can see you don't have any ventilation for the kit box. You need it as close to the roof as possible and another at the bottom. But the screen floor will act as ventilation entry.

When I built my kit boxes, I designed them like a fish tank sitting on a stand. The double kit box resembles the fish tank while the base of the kit box resembles the stand for the fish tank. This design was for easier portability in case I need to move them. I used 1X2” wire for the kit floor. For the stand, which is 2 feet high, I built one catch tray for the double kit box and it is designed just like a drawer in your kitchen cabinet and it is positioned half way on the kit stand. When needs to be cleaned, I just pull it out and clean it. The stand for the kit box also covered with screen mesh from all sides to stop flies and mosquitoes from entering the kit boxes and also catches all their molting feathers so that the yard and the neighbors’ yard will not be full of feathers. Also it will deter any animal from trying to catch the rollers feet from the wire floor. When other fanciers stop over my house, they think it is a portable kit boxes due to handles installed on each corner of the kit box so I can move it if required.

So, Darin try to build a base for your kit box with a catch tray instead of those blocks and you will appreciate it down the road. The base should be only 1 foot high. Also paint your kit boxes from inside now. This way you will eliminate the ammonia smell build up in the kit box because droppings will not soak into the wood grain and will be very easy to clean. I used oil base paint, but you don’t have to use oil based.

For the doors, I used 1/2X1/2” wire, but divided the door two halves. The top half is for the trap, just like yours, while the bottom half, I used the wire to allow light for the birds and fresh air. When I need to darken the kit box, I just use a piece of wood which is cut to the same measurement to cover the bottom half of the door. You will appreciate those amenities down the road. This piece of wood is removed in the day time before going to work and put back in place every night so cats and other animals will not terrorize them.
Good luck,

Jay
Velo99
297 posts
Mar 23, 2006
4:16 PM
Jay,
My door is made of soffet material and has bunches of tiny holes.

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Should be suffiecient. If not I will add some more. I have several sizes of hole saws.
v99
Double D
174 posts
Mar 23, 2006
6:59 PM
Great advice guys. Thanks for the input. I'll be making some changes!

Darin
sundance
1 post
Mar 25, 2006
4:51 AM
hi darin
a good lookin start. i built mine up higher to keep out the cats or such. but i agree with the others, the 1"x1"
wire will make things easier to clean , and if you set the boxs up higher you wont have to bend down to work in the box.mine are 3 feet deep , just arms length inside, and the door is split in half so you only have to open 1 door for feeding and the flighty birds dont slip past you if you dont want them out. the paint inside also makes it easier to clean `cause you can spray the box out with the hose whenever you are flying the team. i also built my doors of double plywood so i have wire on the inside and a door cut in the door for sunlight and ventilation. i`ll try to post a pic to see if i can figure out how. (first time poster, long time reader...lol)

Last Edited by sundance on Mar 25, 2006 4:54 AM


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