Newbie 08
55 posts
Jan 07, 2009
6:26 PM
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How old before the squeekers are ready to start training for flying.
Butch~~~
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 7:33 PM
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fresnobirdman
384 posts
Jan 07, 2009
6:45 PM
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i just wait till they are kinda old but still squeaking,
than i just toss them in to the air with the kit, they just takw off like that.
its easier than trying to fly them young, it gets frustrating when young birds just land when you toss them over and over.
so i just wait it out.
~~Fresnobirdman~~
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washington86
535 posts
Jan 07, 2009
6:50 PM
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You don't want young birds or squeekers to be toss in the sky because most of the time they will fly away, not knowing where they live. I have done this before in the pass.
Just let them out of the cage/kit and roam the backyard. You'll know when they are ready because they start to take off the grown. Some birds are early flyer and some aren't.
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W.Cha
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jnyce
472 posts
Jan 07, 2009
6:59 PM
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i pretty much sat them on top of the loft and when there ready to fly they will take off try not to scare them because u went them to land on the kit box or loft not every where else also if you fly them with an olde kit you will stand a chance of losing them
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jerry t
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 7:02 PM
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fresnobirdman
387 posts
Jan 07, 2009
7:01 PM
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washington86, are you for reals?
i threw all my youngs and they never fly away,
they will always land on the top of my loft or land on my house roof.
i have never have a young fly away from me.
~~Fresnobirdman~~
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Newbie 08
58 posts
Jan 07, 2009
7:04 PM
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ok so what is old and what is young when it comes to a squeeker?? 30 days 45 days etc? the ones i have are only 20 and 18 days old but their feathers are filling out really good. I had one in my hand today and as i moved my arm up and down he was flapping I guess by nature.
Butch~~
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 7:33 PM
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washington86
537 posts
Jan 07, 2009
7:20 PM
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yes fresnobirdman, there is a slight chance that they will fly away. The reason is because when they fly with other birds that experience flight already, they can't catch up and sometime will land somewhere far out of sight. Some will never return. Most of the time, I just wait until they take off and fly up. They usually know when too. Before I force them, and it's not too good.
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W.Cha
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PR_rollers
GOLD MEMBER
2287 posts
Jan 07, 2009
7:35 PM
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Your young are ready to take off at 7 to 8 weeks old that is the time they should be in training some start at 6 weeks .but I always set mine off at 8 weeks they free to go at 7 if they got a early start in them. I never let them go on grass so they don't develop bad habits ..from trapdoor to roof of kitbox and up to the air and back down on kit box and trap in.
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Ralph
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diamondrollers
307 posts
Jan 07, 2009
7:52 PM
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i get them going in and out the cage if you use a trap make sure they no how to trap before getting in the air. Once the birds know how to trap i put them out for about a weak on the kit box then i scare them up no more then 3 times that way you dont get them spoked of landing on the kit box. then i start scareing them out the box with a stick they will go straight into the air and circle the house i do that for about a weak also. After that weak is over if they are not flying i walk them about a block from the house in a careing box and release them to get them to lift up and fly longer i have never lost a bird like this but where i live there are no 2 story homes and many trees they find there way home easy
sal
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Newbie 08
61 posts
Jan 07, 2009
7:57 PM
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Thanks Ralph these are my first babies since i got back in the hobby June-08 I have 8 pairs that self mated 2pairs these pairs are really hot both the cocks are at least 20 25 footer with tight spin and the hens are about 10 footers. I'm looking forward to see what their young will be all about got about 4 weeks left before I start letting them come out and trap back in due to the BOP been lock down since 11/8/08 I don't think I will put them up in the air until mid March would hate to lose any of my babies especially before I knew what their parents were producing.
Butch~~~
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 8:04 PM
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PR_rollers
GOLD MEMBER
2288 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:02 PM
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you welcome Newbie this is how I really do it..step by step
4 weeks old in kitbox they eating on their own by them .5 weeks old free to go in and out from kitbox to cage that I set in front of trap door to the rooftop 6 weeks old close trap leaven them outside until time to eat whistle,shake the feed can or what ever you use to feed them they must trap in on your command everyday .7 weeks old I take off cage that on trap door to roof of kitbox and I leave the trap door open and I just sit and watch make sure before starting that week you brought the feed down on them and I don't bother them they will be curious like saying where is the cage those that are really early starters you will see them as they stretch their wings flapping and sometime go up ----------just let them be pigeons at the end of week now its training time..I hide behind the kitbox I let them out all doors open soon as they are all on roof I quickly flag them up and drop the flag fast run to the front no flag on hand this way they scare of the flag but not me and I watch if I see its going a little caox in the sky I whistle shaking the feed can ..down they come I toss two or three corn as a reward them I do it again only twice and put them away .I have been doing this with my birds since years and never had a problem ..never lost a birds maybe its because at 18 days old I take them from their parents and teach them to eat on their own by feeding them on a tray with the parents so they can mimic the way they pick on the tray eating and they do it too I teach them where is the water dipping their beaks once in a while I put them out side play with them they get an early recognition of their surrounding and owner.. makes them eager to fly at an early age become more intelligent creates more activity at an early age.I have been doing this for ten years with these rollers and I learn that old way from Pensom when I first read his book. its like second nature..
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Ralph
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 8:11 PM
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PR_rollers
GOLD MEMBER
2289 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:04 PM
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Just make sure they are flying before 9 or 10 weeks old after that if they having fly and you put them away you will have problems,,they have to start early.. good luck..
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Ralph
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Newbie 08
62 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:13 PM
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Bingo I like it Ralph this is my first round of babies. I have 26 birds all were purchased squeekers in early 08. half of them are Ruby's They know me pretty well and although they are still a bit curious about me they know I'm the one who takes care of them and they are pretty tame. I like the ideal of starting off with the squabs straight out of the eggs.
Butch~~~
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 8:14 PM
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Newbie 08
63 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:23 PM
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I locked my birds down 11/8/08 due to losing about 3 of them to BOP. 11/13/08 I purchased 3 new squeekers 11/27/08 I purchased 2 more and 12/31/08 3 more a total of 8 squeekers in the last 2 months all Ruby rollers. I have yet to fly any of these 8 due to BOP. Am I blowning it by not flying these birds yet and will I have problems training when I do let them up in early March. I know these Ruby's have a good bloodline and gene pool I have flown 4 out of my loft since July-08 and were impressed with them before I decide to get more. I usually like to see a bird perform regardless of the bloodline. can i get some input.50% of my loft is Ruby's I love them should I take a chance with the BOP and fly these 8 before March or just wait and worse case breed them
Butch~~~
Butch~~~~
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 8:30 PM
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PR_rollers
GOLD MEMBER
2292 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:24 PM
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I feel you Butch just take your time be patient..you be alright..----------just remember if you don't get an early start with them you will have problems ..
Ralph
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 8:27 PM
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sundance
1014 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:33 PM
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Ralph pretty much nailed it.
I`d like to add something that I do tho. I make sure not to feed them the day before I fly them the first time, I want them hungry so they respond real well to the feed can.
Just my opinion, I also dont flag them until they are flying and trapping for at least a week. I want them totally comfortable with the kitbox area being the SAFE place.
You, like all of us will find your own method with practice. There is a lot of good advise posted here.
See what works for "you, AND your birds".
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Butch @
Sundance Roller Lofts
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Newbie 08
64 posts
Jan 07, 2009
8:51 PM
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Thanks Butch@ you guys are wonderful. right now all my birds are in the loft breeding and doing whatever LOL. I'm going to have 2 seperate kit box built in the next month that will hold at least 20 birds each so I can handle them much easier and just use the loft i have for breeders. When I first started back in july it wasn't a big deal because all my birds were squeekers no breeders so I had a strong handle on the training with the food. I learn a huge lesson because I had an 07 pair that produced eggs and I have them on the same feeding program of the rest of my birds which were my kit flyers. Lost the squabs realized later i wasn't feeding the pair enough and they stop feeding the squabs. I have 8 pairs with about 8 more birds i want to pair up. I have to seperate the kit flyers from the breeder now as well as have a box for my young.I'm learning fast the do's and don't if you want to get the best from your birds and you guys are the best source of information I have yet met someone on the forurm who wasn't eager to help and inform me. THANKS GUYS. you all are the best ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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~~~~~~Butch
Last Edited by on Jan 07, 2009 8:51 PM
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rtwilliams
316 posts
Jan 07, 2009
9:55 PM
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Newbie
I have a few hens extra that I put with my young birds at about 4 weeks in a kit box. I train them all to trap as explained above. At 5 weeks I place the young birds on the kit box, and then let the hens out. The young birds usually just sit on top and wonder what is going on. The hens fly around for a while and land. I then call them in. The young birds usually follow the hens right in to eat.
As stated above I usually wait 24 hours between feeding to make sure they are hungry the first few times. It also helps the hens land fster.
The hens will usually pull the young birds up and flying within a couple weeks. I am lucky and have no BOP probems, yet. So it works.
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RT Williams
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roller alley
68 posts
Jan 07, 2009
11:44 PM
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i breed open loft which helps with this problem.my squeeks mature realy fast because i force them on the loft floor early.i try breeding my round at the same time so all of the parents help with feeding of all the squeeks, since they will feed anything that is willing to eat.the squeeks fly around the loft at an early age since they mimmick the parents and they try getting back into their nest box. as soon as i see them take off iside the loft i bring them outside.i do haveto be carefull since their courage is high and are not scared of flying(it helps if you cage them on top of loft a day or two).i do let them fly with older birds that kit well to teach them from the get go to kit,but you have to introduce the squeeks in the kit by 2s each day and not all at the same time.when you see that they are in trouble or about to get lost you toss another bird out to bring them to your loft(some people use fan tails,since they dont fly far)this way the birds do kit early and for dam sure they mature in the roll very fast.this past year i had 1 squeek that was supper hot it came into the roll just before it stopped squeeking,and i made sure i took the band # down and took notes.this bird will serve me again in the future.birds that take too long in coming into the roll get culled.i am not a patient person.
this is how i do things,if you think diff, pleas comment.i do take everything under consideration thanks LJ
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Newbie 08
79 posts
Jan 11, 2009
1:58 PM
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Roller alley what is the time frame that you would say take too much time to come into it's roll?? and is that a spin, tail setting or a few flips. Reason I'm asking I have a bird that I flew for like 15 to 20 times about a month it kit really well but was just flipping 2 to 3 times. I had decided that it wasn't what worth my time so I was just about to get rid of it after flying it about another week and one day all of a sudden this bird went into a deep tight spin with control that was shocking to me. turned out to be my best roller cock. How long to do give your squeakers to start rolling before you cull and what's the depth etc you expect to see in that time frame? I need some input from all those who don't want to waste time as i don't but at the same time want to at least give a bird a fair chance before culling it.
thanks
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~~~~~~butch
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roller alley
76 posts
Jan 11, 2009
2:51 PM
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the exact time frame i failed to note since ive been exclusively working on my own line i have had a lot of culls till now. i have just started taking better notes on egg laying ,egg hatching,who is being fosterd from what parents.the birds i have now are the ones to keep so the notes i will take from now on will tell me exactly next year when this occurs.
i can approximate but im usualy way off when i assume.i guess about 2 1/2 months of them actualy flying with the kit for the full amount of the time.they must fly close to every day 1 to 2 times a day.i dont know how long it takes the bird to stop sqeeking but this one spun about a week before it stopped squeeking. about 10-15 ft
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c robbo
396 posts
Jan 11, 2009
3:47 PM
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12 weeks i let my birds go up i finde by this way you only lose the od one.and thats the best age to start kitting up more a less strate a way.just my apinion.
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PR_rollers
GOLD MEMBER
2312 posts
Jan 11, 2009
4:46 PM
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butch it all depends on your family of birds I have one family that starts at 7 to 9 month and another that starts at 6 month.but some started earlier, but I wait till a year alot of folks don't like to wait that long but that's me.sometime you might just be getting rid of a bird cause he didn't roll within that first year and turn out to be a good one in somebody else hand. .I have lots of patience for these lil guys.. I just keep those separate from the one who are starting to roll.I have three kit boxes one for the ones that are doing it well ,one for the so and so just learning to roll coming into the roll or just can't keep up with the good one not mature enough and the other kitbox is for retraining or culls.. birds that bump going out or coming in these birds sometimes need more rest after the bump need more time to mature and recover but these birds you must take notes of just as you do with your good one but the ones that I retrain I don't breed .. likeness breed likeness..
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Ralph
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